Taff Trail from Merthyr Tydfil to Brecon via Storey Arms

From Merthyr Tydfil there are two routes to Brecon, both marked as the Taff Trail. The route to the west, via the Storey Arms, is a walkers' only track, while the easterly route, via Talybont-on-Usk, is also suitable for mountain bikes. My plan was to go from Merthyr to Brecon on the western path, which follows the Taff to its source, and then return to Merthyr via the eastern routing. On this occasion I completed the loop over two days staying at a Bed & Breakfast in Brecon overnight. This involves two long, tiring days; previously I covered the same distance in three days, staying at the Brecon Beacons and Danywenallt Youth Hostels - a much more sensible option, especially as you can now buy a beer at these places.

Starting from the Merthyr Tydfil railway station I crossed the adjacent shopping area and bridge over the Taff to rejoin the Taff Trail by the weir. I followed it past housing to the first of the historic sites in the environs of Merthyr. This was Chapel Row, a line of terraced houses built for iron workers in the 19th century when the iron industry was booming in the area. One of them was the birthplace of Welsh composer Joseph Parry and a small museum (no, I had not heard of him either). Remains of the Glamorgan canal lie to the front of the terrace.

The second historic site on the Taff trail is the remains of the Cyfarthfa iron works, which date from the 18th century. Once among the biggest in the world, it declined as local sources of iron ore were exhausted. The trail passes the remains of a series of blast furnaces, built into the side of the valley, somewhat spoilt by more recent rubbish. The third historic site is an early iron bridge dating from 1793, so not as old as the more elegant Telford ironbridge. Finally as we leave the more built up area of the Taff valley we cross the elegant Cefn Coed viaduct, built in 1868 to carry the Brecon and Merthyr railway. The line was closed in the 1960s and I will be following the old railway bed on my return to Merthyr tomorrow. Beyond this point an illustration of the viaduct is used on the Taff Trail waymarks.

Cyfarthfa Blast furnaces

Cefn Coed Viaduct

After the viaduct the start of the western route is well hidden, going through a damp underpass below the "Head of the Valleys" main road, after which the waymarking is relatively good although not comprehensive. From this point the Taff valley looses its urban aspect and the valley becomes one of rough farmland, trees, moors and reservoirs (we pass three of them). The A470 main road only slightly distracts from the views across the valley. In Penmoelallt woods, a sign explains that it contains one of Britain's rarest trees, Ley's Whitebeam. All 17 examples of this tree are in the woods here.

After passing the first reservoir on a small road, I reached the Garwnant visitor centre, where I enjoyed a pleasant coffee and toasted teacake. The Taff trail continues off the exit road from the visitor centre. Not long after I missed a turnoff while dreaming of something else and had to retrace my steps. With tiny flakes of snow falling I walked past two more reservoirs, fir trees and some moor to arrive at the Storey Arms, at the watershed between the Taff and tributaries of the Usk. Despite the name this is not a pub but an an outdoor education centre. If you are however in need of refreshment, there is a trailer serving coffee, tea, burgers and various other things in the car park opposite. The breakfast rolls are enormous.

Unexpected Sculpture on the Taff Trail

Walking down from Storey Arms

From here it is downhill to Brecon. After the turnoff to the Youth Hostel, it is mainly on quiet, single track roads, with an excursion through some muddy farmland, where sheep looked at me balefully, maybe hoping for some food. Brecon itself is a pleasant market town with a cathedral and a pedestrian shopping area.

The route today was 33.7 km long, with a total ascent of over 600 metres. A gpx file of the route can be found on wikiloc, click here. It can also be obtained from Viewranger johnpon0017.